To trek in Upper Mustang is a rare privilege. Here you will experience the way of life of true mountain people, who were not much in touch with the rest of Nepal for hundreds of years, and even until recent times had an officially recognized king. In many ways, a trek into Upper Mustang is similar to trekking in Tibet, as geographically it is a part of the Tibetan plateau. The district of Mustang was, until 1950, a separate kingdom within the boundaries of Nepal. The last king, the Raja of Mustang, still has his home in the ancient capital known as Lo Manthang.
Upper Mustang was opened to non-Nepali trekkers only some fifteen years ago and even today, access is still highly restricted. To enter Upper Mustang, that is to travel further north from Kagbeni, trekkers need special trekking permit and must be accompanied by a government appointed officer. Upper Mustang, being in the Himalayan rain shadow, is one of the regions in the country suitable for trekking even during monsoons. During this time, the upper Kali Gandaki valley is still quite dry with only occasional rainfall.
The Mustang trek is not particularly difficult, the highest point reached being only 3,800 meters, but the conditions at times can be arduous. Mustang is cold in winter and is always windy and dusty through the year. Winter treks are best avoided due to harsh weather. There are few accommodation facilities available above Kagbeni, so groups must be fully self-sufficient, especially in fuel. While porters are available in Jomsom it is preferable to use mules to carry the loads up to Mustang. These pack animals are available locally and are more economical, and certainly more environmentally friendly than porters.
Mustang trek requires a minimum of 9 days, starting and ending in Kagbeni. This allows the trek to be completed within the 10-day period that the permit allows. The route generally follows the Kali Gandaki valley but, occasionally climbs high above the valley walls. The settlements are scattered and there is little sign of cultivation between villages. In Mustang, little grows without irrigation, thus the region resembles a desert albeit mountainous, nuclear settlements in fertile areas.
Lo Manthang, the old capital, is reached in four days and at least one extra day should be spent here to catch the sights and sound of this unique walled settlement. Ponies are available for hire if you so desire. The return trip can either follow the same route while entering or, as an alternative route, the eastern bank of the Kali Gandaki may be followed.
Upper Mustang is the northern part of the Mustang district in Nepal's Gandaki Province, bordering Tibet to the north and east. It encompasses the territory north of Kagbeni on the Kali Gandaki River, and its capital is Lo Manthang – a walled medieval city at 3,840 meters that has been continuously inhabited for over 600 years. The region is sometimes called the "Last Forbidden Kingdom" because it remained closed to foreign visitors until 1992, when Nepal opened it to trekkers (under strict permit conditions that remain in force today).
Upper Mustang sits in the rain shadow of the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna Himalayan ranges. While most of Nepal experiences heavy monsoon rainfall from June through September, Upper Mustang receives very little precipitation year-round, giving it a desert-like character: red and ochre eroded cliffs, high-altitude scrubland, deep canyon gorges, and a landscape that looks far more like the Tibetan plateau than the Nepal most visitors expect. This also means trekking is possible even during the monsoon months, making it one of Nepal's few viable all-season trekking destinations.
The main hydrographic feature of Upper Mustang is the Kali Gandaki River, which flows southward from Tibet through the district, bisecting the landscape. The Kali Gandaki Gorge – formed between the peaks of Dhaulagiri (8,167m) and Annapurna I (8,091m) – is by some measures the deepest gorge in the world, dropping roughly 5,500 vertical metres from the surrounding summits to the riverbed.
The traditional territory of the Lo Kingdom spans approximately 53km north–south and 60km east–west, ranging from a low point of about 2,750m at Kagbeni on the Kali Gandaki to 6,700m at Khamjung Himal in the southeast. The landscape is predominantly high-altitude desert: sparse vegetation, eroded rock formations, wind-carved cliffs in dramatic reds and ochres, and medieval villages clustered around water sources.
The routes that once served as the main trans-Himalayan salt trading road between Tibet and India ran through this valley, following the Kali Gandaki and bringing significant trade revenue to the kingdom for centuries.
The Kingdom of Lo (as Upper Mustang is known historically) was founded in 1380 by the warrior Ame Pal, who oversaw the construction of Lo Manthang – the walled capital – and established the Buddhist kingdom that maintained close cultural and trading ties with Tibet. From the 15th to the 17th century, Mustang's strategic position on the salt trade route between Tibet and India gave it considerable economic and political influence.
At the end of the 18th century, the kingdom was annexed by Nepal and became a dependency of the Kingdom of Nepal. The Mustang royal family retained nominal authority, and the last official king – Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista (1930–2016) – who could trace his lineage directly to Ame Pal, continued to be revered by Mustangi people as their sovereign even after the Government of Nepal formally abolished the monarchy in 2008. His family continues to reside in Lo Manthang.
In 2007, a shepherd discovered a cache of 55 cave paintings in Mustang depicting the life of the Buddha, adding to the evidence of this region's deep Buddhist heritage dating back over a millennium.
Upper Mustang requires a special Restricted Area Permit (RAP) in addition to Nepal's standard national park and TIMS permits. The RAP costs USD 500 per person for the first 10 days (USD 50 per day thereafter). It can only be obtained through a registered Nepali trekking agency – solo trekking is prohibited. A minimum of two trekkers is required per application. See our Trekking Permit page for the full requirements and document list.
Upper Mustang contains some of the most remarkable ancient cave dwellings in Asia, carved into 200-metre cliff faces by communities who lived here before the villages below were established. Chhoser Cave (also called Sky Cave) near Lo Manthang has over 50 individual rooms across four connected levels linked by ladders, with 14th-century Buddhist murals still partially intact. Luri Cave Monastery, accessible by a short hike from the jeep track near Charang, has some of the oldest and best-preserved Buddhist artwork in the entire Mustang region. Entry tickets are required; a local guide accompanies visitors.
Lo Manthang – often called the "City of Clay" or "City of Walls" – is the central attraction of Upper Mustang. Built within a perimeter wall in the 14th century to protect the Kingdom of Lo, the city contains the royal palace, three ancient monasteries (the oldest of which, Jampa Lhakhang, dates to the 15th century and is sometimes called "The God House"), and a network of narrow lanes whose layout has changed very little in 600 years. The Mustang royal family still lives here, and the population of around 1,000 people maintains the walled settlement even as a newer neighbourhood expands outside the walls. A large resort was under construction outside the walls in recent years under the direction of the former crown prince.
Upper Mustang is often called "Little Tibet" because virtually every village has its own monastery. Buddhism is not a background feature here – it is active daily life. Monks are visible throughout the day at prayer, at work, and at the festivals that punctuate the year. In Lo Manthang alone there are three medieval monasteries, each maintained by a different monastic lineage. Your guesthouse in Lo Manthang can typically arrange a guide for monastery visits and even, on request, an audience with the Mustang royal family.
The most significant festival in Upper Mustang is the Tiji Festival (May/June) – see our dedicated page for details. The next major festival is the Yartung Festival (August/September), a communal harvest celebration involving horse racing, traditional dress, feasting, and dancing across the villages of the region, including Muktinath and Lo Manthang. Unlike Tiji's solemn ritual character, Yartung is festive and community-focused.
Before modern roads connected Nepal and China, Upper Mustang was a critical waypoint on the Trans-Himalayan salt trading road. Salt from Tibet was exchanged for grain and goods from India and the southern valleys. The route followed the Kali Gandaki River and brought significant income to the region. While this trade largely ended with the construction of the Araniko Highway and later the improved Nepal–China road network, evidence of its historical importance is visible in the design of the villages, the positioning of monasteries along the route, and the stories still told by older Mustangi residents.
Upper Mustang's rain shadow location makes it viable year-round, but the best time to visit depends on your goals. The spring months (March–May) offer pleasant temperatures and clear mountain views, and culminate in the Tiji Festival in May. The monsoon months (June–September) are when most of Nepal is wet and difficult to trek, but Upper Mustang remains dry and accessible – with fewer crowds than spring. Autumn (October–November) offers excellent visibility and stable weather. Winter (December–February) is cold and some guesthouses close, but the landscape is stark and beautiful and visitor numbers are at their lowest.
If you want to attend the Tiji Festival, plan for mid-May (2026: May 14–16) or early June (2027: June 1–3).
You cannot enter Upper Mustang independently. All visitors require the Restricted Area Permit, which is only issued through registered Nepali trekking agencies. We offer multiple ways to experience the region:
Tiji Festival Group Trek (18 days) – guided group, from USD 2,090
Tiji Festival Private Trek (18 days) – private guide, flexible dates, from USD 2,180
Upper Mustang Trek (17 days) – without festival focus, year-round
4WD Overland Tour (15 days) – reach Lo Manthang by jeep, no trekking
Helicopter Tour (7 days) – fly direct, limited seats
Motorbike Tour (15 days) – ride the Mustang Highway
Contact info@tijifestivaltrek.com to discuss the right option for your dates, group, and budget.
If you want to find out more about Tiji Festival Upper Mustang or need our assistance for planning your Tiji festival trekking, simply send us an email and we will get back to you right away.
Getaway Nepal Adventure (P.) Ltd
Thamel Kathmandu, Nepal
TripAdvisor